The purpose of this blog is to help you build shoulder strength. I talked about this in the last blog, but it’s really important, so I’m going to get back on my soapbox. Everyone is different regarding what position feels the best for them when training their shoulders. Some people like a chest open cue when climbing. Others prefer to focus on keeping their shoulders out of internal rotation (this happens when you chicken wing). Others envision an extended T-spine. Some people think about moving their shoulder blades as they move their arms. It doesn’t matter which cue works for you. What does matter is that the cueing helps take stress off your neck, shoulders, or fingers or that it diminishes your symptoms. Some of the consistency of knowing an activated position comes from training in this position while you lift as well as incorporating this into your climbing.
Shoulder Stabilizers
I like doing Ts and Ys on the rings or TRX. Using both face up and face down positions will get both your back and chest working. A neutral grip (thumbs up) will also help keep your chest open. I performed push ups on the rings, but if you have access to a bench press bar, that will demand more force production. Which, in turn, gives you a stronger training stimulus.
Upper Trap Activation
Upper Traps sometimes get a bad rap for doing too much; however, we do need strong Upper Traps for climbing. Handstands are a good exercise to do while on the road. Here are a few other exercises that are good for overall shoulder stability and that target Upper Traps using weights.
Single Arm Hangs
Single arm hangs have been really helpful for me to train all 17 muscles that move my shoulder. When you hang off of one straight arm, you want to keep some space between your arm and your ear. You can also hold lock offs around 90 degrees of elbow flexion. Avoid training lock offs at 45 degrees or less; they can irritate the common flexor tendon due to compression of the tendon against the bone. Lots of high-level climbers talk about trying really hard while holding one arm hangs. I like to take a page out of David MacLeod’s book and hold isometric one arm hangs for 5 to 8 seconds with a 20 second break before doing the other arm. Then rest for at least a minute before you begin your next set. I find 4 or 5 of these per arm is really challenging when performing them at max effort. You can take a bit of weight off by holding onto something with your other hand, or by setting up a pulley system so you can complete the hang for 5 to 8 seconds. If you are a crusher and eight seconds is easy for you to hold, you can grab a weight to make yourself heavier or hold a smaller hold.
Push Up to Side Plank
The last exercise incorporates dumbells with a push up. If I only have a minute to do a shoulder exercise, this one gets my shoulders pumped and engages my stabilizers while challenging my core. Enjoy.
For more inspiration, check out climber David MacLeod’s vlog here.
